Yesterday was all about the learnin’. I will share.
~~ When you change a password, best check what that changed password will affect. The comments are working now.
~~ Spin all your singles up at once. Then ply everything up at once. It will make for a more consistent finished yarn – especially given my newbie status.
I finished spinning up the 8 oz I had of Moonstone, merino roving from Spunky Eclectic. I was so looking forward to finishing this stuff up because I had grand grand plans for it! I was going to make my first handspun project from this yarn. And now that it’s off the bobbins, I’ve got to say, I’m a bit disappointed. I should clarify – this has EVERYTHING to do with my spinning and NOTHING to do with the fiber. Of all the fiber I’ve spun (which is limited – I will admit) Spunky Eclectic is by far my favorite – for the color AND the prep. I was quite pleased with the first batch (see post here). I managed a nice tight ply and I liked that a lot. This time around, not so much.
Can you see the difference?
How about now?
NOW?!? New yarn on the left, old yarn on the right.
The new yarn is not as tight at ALL. And therefore I think it looks a little loosy and sloppy. It’s not as smooth. Although it looks a TON better now that it’s been washed and dried. It’s also a bit thinner. I finally see a reason for two wheels. Before you all either start laughing or groaning – how great would it be to have one wheel for plying – where I could keep the tension and everything JUST SO and then be spinning on another wheel where I could also keep the tension and everything JUST SO. As it is now, I’m going to have to spin up all of the singles and THEN start plying. Clearly I’m not good enough to go back and forth. I need the stability of keeping things JUST SO.
In the first batch I’ve got about 310 yds and the second batch I’ve got about 566 yds, so a decent amount. I had wanted to make a shawl with it – and I guess I still could – I could use the 310 yds at the top of the shawl – where it’s a bit bigger, and then use the rest as it gets to the point. Any and all suggestions for about 800 yds of fingering weight (I’m guessing here) would be great. I’d love a pattern that shows off the yarn – so something with a bit of stockinette to it would be great.
Eh. I’ll do better next time.
By the way – before I change topics – CJ asked me to mention a new swap she and Christina have put together: The Spinning Roving Swap. All information can be found at that link. I’m off swaps for a while now, but if I was going to get in on one – this looks really good. Different sign ups for people wanting to learn to spin, and for experienced spinners. Check it out.
~~ Don’t be afraid to try new things.
I’m very reluctant to show you this:
Yup. It’s a toe up sock – STR – Pebble Beach colorway – old put up. I had almost given up the other day when I had tried the Magic Cast On, Wendy’s short row method and Purly’s YO method. Then, yesterday in the comments (before I broke them), Rachel mentioned that I should try the Turkish Cast On. So I checked a couple tutorials and MY GOD. This is the most mind-blowingly easy thing I have ever tried. Just wrap the yarn around two needles and start knitting. Seriously. LOOK AT THIS TOE!
The top down knee high I just finished – kitchener stitch at the close – is on the left and the brand new toe up Turkish Cast On goodness is on the right. They barely look any different. All you toe up people – why would you use anything other than this cast on? Also, I love me some M1. I’ve mastered the right leaning M1 and the left leaning M1 and it’s so much nicer (TO ME) than short rows. So much nicer. Check it out!
Again, top down on the left, toe up on the right. You can barely tell the difference. Recently I’ve learned that I like a wider toe. I start my toe decreases very late – almost at the top of my pinky toe, and then I decrease four stitches every other row until I have fourteen on the top of the toe and the bottom of the toe (28 altogether.) Then I slip the stitch right inside the outer stitches over the outer stitch (I read it somewhere – makes the toe a bit rounder and not as pointy on the edges) then kitchener the 24 remaining stitches. Perfection!
So yesterday, I cast on 24 stitches – 12 on the top, 12 on the bottom) and knit a couple rows then started increasing four stitches every other round until I got to 64. DONE! Perfection
The jury is still out on these socks, though, because I really don’t like a short row heel. So if I can’t figure out the toe up heel flap – I don’t know. This might be a 325 yd STR prototype and then I’ll start knitting from the top down again. Question for anyone out there that has knit a toe up heel flap: When knitting from the top down, I generally have about 58 rows between my last gusset decrease and the start of my toe decreases. Is it the same when knitting toe up – should I start my gusset INCREASES at row 59 from the toe decreases? How do you know where to start the heel? THANK YOU!
Okay. I’m off to help my newbie again today. She’s finished the bottom of her bag – I’m so proud. Unfortunately the dog ate my homework. I’ve done like 20 rows out of 66 on my own bag.
Have a great day!